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Bodegas Toro Albalá is the only true specialist of vintage Pedro Ximénez in the world. In addition to their highly sought-after sweet wines, Toro Albalá also produces impeccably made vintage Amontillados and non-fortified Finos produced with the criaderas-solera system. In its early days, starting from 1844, Bodegas Toro Albalá was mostly focused on the production of Fino-styled wines, but with the arrival of José Maria Toro Albalá in 1922, this all changed. With a reputation for being somewhat unconventional, José’s first order of business was to restore the former electric power station of Aguilar de la Frontera, and transform the 14,000m2 power plant into a winery and cellar; Amongst others, José Maria also developed Toro Albalá’s now famous wooden labels, as well as his own patented invention called ‘Trapped Air’, a novel approach to the problem of conserving wine in perfect condition. Toro Albalá’s current owner, Antonio Sánchez Romero, has invested heavily in the latest technologies to ensure maximum control at every stage of the winemaking and ageing process. Today, bodegas Toro Albalá offers a unique combination of excellent raw materials, modern technology, and respect for the traditional Montilla-Moriles methods and styles, and above all a serious commitment to making the world’s finest sweet wines.
Each year they select a number of single vintage, sweet PX wines to be bottled, the first of which (besides the young wine) is the 1987 Don Px Gran Reserva in 2016 - a wine aged in American oak casks for some 28 years. These wines are almost indestructible, so the drinking windows are mostly academic. This showcases the classical aromas and palate of an old PX from Montilla, strong notes of dark chocolate, dried figs and plums, raisins and sweet spices; the dense, thick and persistent palate where the 380 grams of unfermented sugar are not noticeable, as they are balanced by good acidity that also gets concentrated by age. This is probably the densest of all the wines I tasted today, and there is a distinct, perfumed, almost floral note here (is it violet pastille?), which makes it extremely attractive. It's also the most drinkable of all these old vintages, very balanced within its sweet profile, with marked flavors (also licorice and black olives) that stay in your mouth for one minute. Exotic and exuberant. This is incredibly young and lively, and very good value for the age and quality it delivers. 52,000 liters bottled in 750- and 375-milliliter bottles. The price is for a 750-milliliters. Wine Advocate 94
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