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Nervi Gattinara Molsino 2013
Nervi Gattinara Molsino 2013


 
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Nervi is a historic, benchmark Gattinara producer possessing some of the most prized vineyard holdings in all of the appellation. The winery was founded in 1906 by Italo Nervi and is the oldest Cantina in Gattinara, though many of the vineyards had already been in the family dating back as far as 1679. The estate comprises 28.5 hectares of vineyards including their top crus of Molsino and Valferana as well as Garavoglie and Casacce. These are historic crus in Gattinara – mentions of Molsino in town records date as far back as 1471 and those of Valferana date back to 1231!

The Nervi family built up the reputation of the estate, running it continually until 1991 when a steel magnate named Germano Bocciolone purchased the estate. Twenty years later, a group of Norwegian investors led by a passionate wine collector, Erling Astrup, purchased the winery. Astrup endeavored to push the level of quality at Nervi and sought out advice from his longtime friend Roberto Conterno. In 2018, the group decided to sell the winery and, wanting to see it fall into good hands, felt it was best to offer it first to Roberto Conterno. While Roberto had not been actively seeking out a new winery, the opportunity to acquire such an historic estate with great vineyard holdings of Nebbiolo was too hard to pass up. Roberto's aim, along with his sons, is to apply the same fastidious attention to detail and quality to the wines of Nervi as he does to those of the Giacomo Conterno estate.

The Molsino vineyard was planted in 1992 and enjoys a protected position at the heart of a little amphitheater of hills. It is planted at about 400 meters above sea level, but the daytime heat and sunshine settles softly into this unique vineyard basin. The 2013 Gattinara Vigna Molsino shows power, firmness and finesse. These traits suggest that it needs a little more bottle age to further its evolution. Of the two vineyard selections, this wine is probably the most cellar worthy. The bouquet shows tight aromas of cassis, spice and campfire ash. Although Roberto Conterno promises that he will not change the Nervi house style, it will be fascinating to taste this wine in a few years, when it is under the full tutelage of the maker of Monfortino. One thing must be said for both Monfortino and Molsino—these wines benefit from first rate quality of fruit. Wine Advocate 93

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