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Jean-François Ganevat La Cuvée du Pépé 2008
Jean-François Ganevat La Cuvée du Pépé 2008


 
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There is a new white aged under a veil of yeasts that goes under the name 2008 La Cuvée du Pépé. What is unusual is that this mini-vin jaune - it aged sus-voile for seven years - is produced with Chardonnay grapes and cannot be called vin jaune. The nose screams Jura, with incredible intensity and powerful aromas. It can certainly compete with the house's yellow wines. The complexity and power of the aromas are also matched by the palate. I don't know where the grapes come from but the labeling suggest they are from their estate vineyards, and the texture balance and concentration found in the palate made me think it could come from the Grandes Teppes. This is a tremendous new addition to the already wide portfolio and Ganevat taking a new step in the development of the traditional sus voile wines. It might lack the vibrancy and length that some of the best Savagnin from the best terroirs (think Château Chalon) show, but this is certainly a new way. It feels like he's more and more comfortable producing traditional wines aged under veil, as at first he was quite reluctant and settled to produce ouillé wines only. Things change quite a bit and tradition is very strong. It reminded me how some young Douro producers didn't want to produce Port (reaction to tradition?), but they all ended up doing it... Wine Advocate 95+

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