The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve, which was made from frighteningly low yields, has a whopping 16.5% alcohol, compared to the 2010's 16.4, yet it is not even noticeable, given the luxurious concentration and extraordinary depth and richness this wine possesses. A phenomenal example of opulence, super concentration, old vine viticulture, and impeccable winemaking, this black/blue/purple wine displays notes of spring flowers, graphite, blueberries, blackberries, licorice and some charcoal notes, even though it is aged totally in old wood foudres. Given its opulence, it can be drunk relatively early on, but this wine will keep for15-20 years, based on how slowly vintages such as 1999 and 2000 are aging. WA97
“Always one of my favorite Chateauneuf du Pape estates to visit, proprietor Jean-Paul Dauman has made Domaine de la Vieille Julienne a brilliant reference point for this appellation. These are traditionally made, extraordinarily concentrated Chateauneuf du Papes created from old vine, biodynamically farmed sites and made from minuscule yields, hands off, no SO2 during vinification, and aged in neutral tanks or old wood. Over the last decade, Jean-Paul Daumen, the proprietor, winemaker, and Mr. Everything at Vieille Julienne, has emerged as one of France’s most compelling wine producers. Taking advantage of the ancient vines his family owns in the northern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape, and biodynamically farming the entire vineyard, he has produced extraordinary wines since 1998. Daumen’s winemaking philosophy is remarkably simple – old vines, tiny yields of around 20 hectoliters per hectare, no SO2 during vinification, aging in neutral tanks or wood, and bottling without fining or filtration. The results are wines of extraordinary purity, and naked expressions of terroir as well as the personality of the vintage. I cannot recommend these wines highly enough. Sadly, as with most of the world’s most majestic wines, production is relatively limited, and the demand is insatiable. He is now one of the truly stunning producers in all of France and, somewhat unusual for Chateauneuf du Pape, he doesn’t make any white Chateauneuf du Pape.” - Robert Parker
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