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Agrapart & Fils Extra Brut Grand Cru Complantee NV
Agrapart & Fils Extra Brut Grand Cru Complantee NV

Our Price: $530.00

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Agrapart is a serious grower owning ten hectares at Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry, producing storable wines vinified in oak barrels of varying sizes. The wines are sometimes a bit rustic, but rich in extracts and needing time to develop fully. As much as 60% goes on export. I fell especially for the Terroirs which is creamy and impressively intense with Cramant as its guiding star. Rounded, nutty and syrupy. With such a voluminous structure it ought to be designated as vintage.

Planted in 2002-2003, a field-blend of Pinot noir, Pinot Meunier (those two comprising together 30%), Pinot Blanc, Arbane, Petit Meslier and Chardonnay informs Agrapart’s NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Complantee C13, based on the 2009 vintage and bottle-fermented under cork. (Though now that production in this vineyard is increasing, Agrapart says he’s going to have to switch back to crown capsules.) There is a prickly pungency in the nose and bright kick of acidity on the palate that I am tempted to attribute to the influence of Arbane and Petit Meslier, though certainly no harshness. (Bear in mind that like all Agrapart Champagnes, this completed malo-lactic transformation.) Scents and tart-edged palate presence of mustard seed; rhubarb; pear with prominence of its pips; and sea breeze, make for an invigorating and mouthwatering performance, if not one with depth in the sense of bass notes – but then, these are still young vines (dare I add, “learning to grow and play together”?). Subtle chalkiness adds to the intrigue of a long finish. Wine Advocate 92

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