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Bodegas Toro Albala Don Px 1990
Bodegas Toro Albala Don Px 1990


 
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Bodegas Toro Albalá is the only true specialist of vintage Pedro Ximénez in the world. In addition to their highly sought-after sweet wines, Toro Albalá also produces impeccably made vintage Amontillados and non-fortified Finos produced with the criaderas-solera system. In its early days, starting from 1844, Bodegas Toro Albalá was mostly focused on the production of Fino-styled wines, but with the arrival of José Maria Toro Albalá in 1922, this all changed. With a reputation for being somewhat unconventional, José’s first order of business was to restore the former electric power station of Aguilar de la Frontera, and transform the 14,000m2 power plant into a winery and cellar; Amongst others, José Maria also developed Toro Albalá’s now famous wooden labels, as well as his own patented invention called ‘Trapped Air’, a novel approach to the problem of conserving wine in perfect condition. Toro Albalá’s current owner, Antonio Sánchez Romero, has invested heavily in the latest technologies to ensure maximum control at every stage of the winemaking and ageing process. Today, bodegas Toro Albalá offers a unique combination of excellent raw materials, modern technology, and respect for the traditional Montilla-Moriles methods and styles, and above all a serious commitment to making the world’s finest sweet wines.

The 1990 Don PX Gran Reserva has unusually high sugar, close to 400 grams (when this range is usually less than 360). Compared with the rest of wines, this feels like a very good value. These wines mature in old 550-liter American oak casks for decades, and the wines have great concentration. It felt unusually perfumed, a little spirity and with notes that made me think of Moscatel—notes of orange peel and flowers, and of course the raisin and dry dates and figs from these wines made with raisins. It's sweet and dense like motor oil and leaves a combination of raisins and chocolate in the spicy and faintly warm finish. This was bottled in early 2019. Wine Advocate 93

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