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Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Pur Sang 2017
Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Pur Sang 2017

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Didier Dagueneau’s son Louis-Benjamin (whose name now appears on the label) is in charge of the domaine that his recently-deceased and much-lamented father brought to such notoriety. Benjamin Dagueneau – whose intense focus is obvious – has been working alongside his father for several years, and the crew here – one person each for the estate’s 11 hectares (27 acres) – are no doubt exceptionally capable of carrying on.

I had chance to compare the two lots that represent Dagueneau’s passes on the vineyard for his 2011 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Pur Sang as well as to essay an impromptu blend, featuring high-toned peppermint and pungent if elusive floral essences; a slippery textured, infectiously juicy, wafting mid-palate. A savory, saline, iodine-tinged suggestion of shrimp shell reduction helps render the finish mouthwatering as well as intriguing, while nips of citrus pip peppermint serve for invigoration. The even and advanced ripeness as well as watercolor-like (rather than sharply focused or intensely saturated) expression of the 2011 vintage is here combined with an engaging vivacity and transparency to nuance that one doesn’t often encounter. Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau indicated that he was still working with the lees of his young 2011s “to build body and richness,” but I hope he views this Pur Sang as on the right track to gloriously delicious self-expression without much further assistance! Wine Advocate 92-93 (2011)

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