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Didier Dagueneau Sancerre Le Mont Damne 2016
Didier Dagueneau Sancerre Le Mont Damne 2016

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Didier Dagueneau’s son Louis-Benjamin (whose name now appears on the label) is in charge of the domaine that his recently-deceased and much-lamented father brought to such notoriety. Benjamin Dagueneau – whose intense focus is obvious – has been working alongside his father for several years, and the crew here – one person each for the estate’s 11 hectares (27 acres) – are no doubt exceptionally capable of carrying on.

The Dagueneau 2011 Sancerre Monts Damnes had just been given a lees-beating, so it was a bit cloudy and reduced when I tasted it; but that did not prevent it from impressing on me a profoundly delicious personality. Indeed, speaking of “beating,” an aggressive aeration really brought this to life, beginning with an effusive aromatic emanation of flowers and herbs. There is nutty richness and piquancy allied to a Chablis-like sense of herbed chicken stock and perfectly complemented by a silken texture (granted, under tactile influence of suspended lees); but at the same time, sheer juicy refreshment, levity, as well as lively interaction with notes of chalk, smoke and citrus zest make for a vibrant, energetic performance such as few Loire Sauvignons of this vintage approach. Look for this to benefit from several years in bottle and to be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. Wine Advocate 93-94+ (2011)

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