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Cristom Estate Viognier 2019
Cristom Estate Viognier 2019


 
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Established in 1992, Cristom has been under the control of founder and owner Paul Gerrie and winemaker Steve Doerner since their foundation. Paul emphasises the Cristom philosophy of “letting the land make the wines’, while Steve believes his role is to optimise what nature provides. The continuity of personnel, combined with the ownership of prime vineyard sites, has allowed Cristom to produce impressive Pinot Noirs, particularly the single vineyard cuvees which are named in honour of matriarchs of the Gerrie family.

From one of owner Paul Gerrie’s earliest plantings – which Doerner (a veteran of Calera where this cepage had by then been in the ground for a decade) says “I advised against because in this cool climate I didn’t think it would work too well” – the Cristom 2010 Viognier is simply the latest in a long line – but especially given its far cooler-than-usual growing season – to defy its winemaker’s early prediction. A classic, effusive nose of acacia, honeysuckle, and white peach is lusciously instantiated on the palate, accompanied by the merest hint of this grape’s typical oiliness that can easily become tiring. Soothing yet downright refreshing – and thanks to a nip of pepper cress and piquancy of peach kernel invigorating – this finishes with admirable persistence. “The real challenge with this grape variety is waiting for that right moment when you can pick with good flavors but not go overboard,” notes Doerner, adding that “this is only the second time I’ve made a Viognier that was under 14% in alcohol.” Vinification and maturation were in a mixture of barriques aged five years or more and a few stainless steel drums of equal volume. WA90

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