This is big and powerful, without being ripe and heavy. So much apple, stone, and hints of toffee. Aromatic. Full-bodied, layered and framed with phenolic tension and a great finish. Muscular and agile at the same time. One of the best I have tasted. Drink or hold. 99 James Suckling

Marchesi Antinori’s estate in Umbria is a revolutionary force for the region. The amazingly successful Cervaro della Sala has arguably done more to raise the image of Italian white wine than any other single bottle. Winemaker Renzo Cotarella grew up near Castello della Sala and enjoys a deeply personal relationship to this estate.